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By-Pass Enclosure Install Tips

Cutting the threshold: Use a carpenter’s folding ruler with a slide to assure the most accurate measurement from inside wall to inside wall. Use the following deductions to find the threshold measurement. Commit them to memory for extra speed.

Parklane By-Pass: 5/16"

CrystalLine and Classic By-Pass: 15/16"

Signature By-Pass: 9/16"

Fitting the curved corners on an acrylic or fiberglass stall: It is very important for the wall jambs to fit securely on both ends of the threshold. To do this correctly, you need to cut and/or file the bottom corner of the wall jambs to fit the contour of the corners. Parklane and Signature wall jambs can easily be cut with a chop saw or with a hacksaw and miter box. The backside of the CrystalLine and Classic wall jambs can be clipped with a pair of tin snips for extra speed. After the rough-cut has been made, file the corners to fit the contour of the stall. Here is a trick that will ease this process. Look at the change in your pocket. The quarter, nickel, dime, and penny each have different radiuses. Place each of them next to the corner in question. Choose the coin that best defines the radius of the stall corner. Usually one of the 4 will be very close. Then, use the chosen coin radius to mark, cut, file, and check your progress on contouring the wall jamb to fit. This is most helpful when installing a unit on a retail sale. If the customer is living in the house already, you do not want to keep making trips in and out of the house contouring the wall jamb and checking how close it fits the stall, nor do you want to leave file shavings on the bathroom floor.

Secure the wall jambs to an acrylic or fiberglass stall: Because acrylic and fiberglass are weaker materials than tile and cultured marble, do not use the gray anchors included in the hardware pack. Instead, simply drill 9/64" holes (1/8" holes for Parklane Bypass) about 1/16" to 1/8" lower than needed. This will cause your screws to pull down on the wall jambs as they are fastened to the wall securing the threshold in place. Start your screw slowly into the 1/8" hole so as not to crack or oyster the fiberglass. Apply the last bit of torque with a hand held screwdriver to prevent stripping the hole.

Securing the wall jambs to tile and cultured marble units: First use a carbide tipped scribe or punch to scar the surface of the tile. This will prevent your 3/16" masonry bit from dancing across the surface of the tile. There is no need to scribe a cultured marble surface. Then, drill your hole about 1/16" to 1/8" lower than needed. This will cause your screws to pull down on the wall jambs as they are fastened to the wall securing the threshold in place. Always use the gray anchors included in the hardware packet when installing on tiled surfaces. It is suggested to use the gray anchors in cultured marble surfaces as well. However, some installers prefer to use a 1/8" hole without anchors. If you choose this option, be careful. The cultured marble is easily stripped when using a drill gun to install the screws.

Cutting the Headers: Use a carpenter’s folding ruler with a slide to assure the most accurate measurement from inside wall to inside wall. After obtaining a full measurement, pull the slide rule in 1/8" to get the exact length of the header. Using this 1/8" rule of thumb will give you enough room to install the header without scratching the wall’s surface.

A Specific Tip for the Parklane and Classic By-Pass

The nylon guides on Parklane Bypass panels are positioned so that they snap with ease into the sill track. The problem is that sometimes they snap in on their own before you have made your final adjustments at the roller brackets. Disengaging the guide can be an aggravating procedure that often produces scratched rails or even broken guides. Here is the trick to a quick and damage free disengagement.

First, raise the corner of the panel so that the bridge portion of the guide is diagonal.

Second, place a flat head screwdriver on top of the portion of the guide that engages the track. Let the weight of the panel rest on the screwdriver wedging the flat head between the panel and the guide.

Next, push down slightly on the handle of the screwdriver.

Now stop; take a moment to check the position of the screwdriver in relation to any other metal. You don’t want it to create scratches on the other panel or the sill.

To disengage, hold the screwdriver in position as you pull the door sideways and inward.

A Specific Tip for the CrystalLine By-Pass

The most aesthetically crucial step when installing a CrystalLine Bypass is making sure the towel bar is installed parallel to the header and the threshold. Some installers might even say: "Forget aesthetics, what is the best way to press the compression fitted brackets onto the glass?" Well, here is the trick to an easy and parallel CrystalLine towel bar installation.

First, hang and adjust the frameless bypass panels.

Second, assemble one end of the towel bar completely and place the edge of the bracket into the wall jamb bumper.

Next, with the rubber pad against the edge of the glass, slide the glass into the compression fitted bracket. A small spray of glass cleaner can be used to assist in lubrication.

Last, repeat the process for the bracket at the other end of the towel bar.

By pushing the glass panel against the wall, the installer gains leverage for an easier assembly.

By placing the towel bar brackets against the wall jamb bumpers on both sides, the installer effortlessly gains a parallel position in relation to the header and the threshold.

Don’t forget to cut away the excess rubber from the edges of the bracket. After all, the essence of this tip is aesthetics.

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